The new designer collections you need on your radar this season
The fresh fashion forecast: new collections are here
As the seasons turn, so do the tides of fashion. The runways have spoken, the lookbooks have dropped, and a new creative energy is buzzing through the industry. For anyone who lives and breathes style, this is the most exciting time. It’s a chance to discover the silhouettes, colors, and ideas that will define our wardrobes for months to come. But with so much to see, where do you start? Don’t worry, we’ve done the work for you.
Here at KIQIZ, we’re constantly scanning the horizon for what’s next. This season, it’s not just about micro-trends; it’s about seismic shifts. We’re seeing iconic fashion houses completely reinventing themselves under new leadership, while a new guard of independent designers is challenging the status quo with bold visions and sustainable practices. From the polished runways of Milan to the creative hubs of London, these are the new designer collections you absolutely need to watch.
A new chapter for an icon: Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci
All eyes were on Milan for the debut of Sabato De Sarno as the new creative director for Gucci. After years of Alessandro Michele’s whimsical and maximalist reign, the industry held its breath, waiting to see what direction the legendary house would take. The answer? A stunning pivot to sophisticated, sensual, and eminently wearable luxury.
De Sarno’s first collection, aptly named “Ancora,” which means “again” in Italian, was a masterclass in subtlety and precision. He stripped back the layers to focus on impeccable tailoring, luxurious materials, and a quiet confidence that felt both modern and timeless. The collection was a love letter to real clothes for real life—if your real life is impossibly chic, of course.
Key pieces to know
The standout looks revolved around razor-sharp mini shorts, ultra-short coat-dresses, and perfectly cut leather jackets. The color palette was anchored in a deep, rich oxblood red—dubbed “Gucci Rosso”—which appeared on everything from patent leather platform loafers to monogrammed bags. Gone were the elaborate prints and gender-fluid florals; in their place were sparkling crystal-fringed shift dresses, understated tank tops paired with elegant pencil skirts, and blazers that meant business. It’s a vision of Gucci that feels less about costume and more about building a forever wardrobe. Celebrities like Jessica Chastain and Julia Roberts have already been spotted in the new designs, signaling a shift towards a more polished and mature celebrity style endorsement.
The cool kids of Paris: Coperni’s tech-infused futurism
If you’re on fashion TikTok, you already know Coperni. The French brand, helmed by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, is famous for its viral runway moments, most notably the spray-on dress worn by Bella Hadid. But they are far more than a one-trick pony. Their latest collection proves they are masters of blending futuristic innovation with a sharp, wearable, and undeniably cool aesthetic.
This season, Coperni continued to explore the intersection of fashion and technology. The show featured AI-powered robotic speakers and a general sense of sci-fi sleekness. Yet, the clothes themselves were surprisingly grounded. The collection was a lesson in modern power dressing, designed for a woman who is both intelligent and effortlessly chic. Think deconstructed tailoring, asymmetrical necklines, and body-conscious silhouettes that celebrate the female form.
The trends they’re setting
Look out for their signature cut-out details, which appeared on everything from blazers to slinky evening gowns. Low-slung trousers, sheer fabrics, and bomber jackets with exaggerated proportions are also set to be major trends trickling down from their runway. Their iconic Swipe bag has been updated in new textures and metallics, cementing its status as an It-bag for the digital age. Coperni is for the forward-thinker, the one who isn’t afraid to embrace the future of fashion while looking incredible in the present. It’s no wonder style icons like Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber are consistently photographed in their designs.
Sustainable punk meets folklore: the world of Chopova Lowena
For those who crave something truly unique, look no further than London-based duo Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena. Their brand, Chopova Lowena, has been a cult favorite for years, but it’s now reaching a critical mass of recognition for its wildly original and sustainable approach. Their aesthetic is a vibrant clash of Bulgarian folklore, 80s rock climbing gear, and punk rebellion.
Their signature piece is the carabiner-clipped pleated skirt, crafted from deadstock and recycled textiles like traditional Bulgarian blankets and aprons. Each piece is one-of-a-kind, a wearable work of art that tells a story. Their latest collection builds on this foundation, expanding into a full wardrobe of eclectic and joyful clothing. It’s maximalism with a conscience.
Why they matter now
In a world of fast fashion and fleeting trends, Chopova Lowena stands for something more. Their commitment to upcycling and traditional craftsmanship is a powerful statement. Their collection featured intricately layered dresses, graphic-printed t-shirts that felt like vintage band merch, and heavily embellished knitwear. The silhouettes are often unconventional, mixing voluminous sleeves with cinched waists and clashing prints with a fearless confidence. This is not fashion for the faint of heart. It’s for the individualist, the art student, the person who sees clothing as a form of self-expression. Their growing celebrity fanbase, including stars like Olivia Rodrigo and Dua Lipa, proves that their unique vision is resonating far and wide.
The power of romance: Simone Rocha’s enduring vision
Simone Rocha has carved out a unique space in the fashion landscape with her brand of dark, powerful romance. Her collections are consistently breathtaking, blending historical references with a modern, rebellious femininity. While she is more established than an emerging designer, her collections are always ones to watch because she never fails to push her own creative boundaries and influence the industry’s mood.
Her latest offering was a masterwork of texture and emotion. Inspired by themes of love, loss, and ceremony, the collection was a parade of exquisite craftsmanship. She explored deconstructed wedding dresses, turning tulle, lace, and satin into something both beautiful and slightly haunting. There was a strength in the vulnerability of her designs.
The details that define the collection
Key elements included her signature voluminous silhouettes, puff sleeves, and delicate pearl and crystal embellishments. However, this season saw these romantic notions toughened up with the inclusion of utilitarian bomber jackets and chunky, tread-sole boots. Sheer, ethereal dresses were layered over more practical underpinnings, suggesting a complex and multifaceted woman. The color palette was a delicate mix of ivories, pinks, and blacks, creating a dramatic and emotional narrative on the runway. Simone Rocha reminds us that fashion can be deeply personal and poetic. It’s for the modern romantic who is unafraid to be both soft and strong.
How to wear the new season now
Feeling inspired? The best part about these new collections is how their key ideas can be translated into your own wardrobe. You don’t need a front-row seat to channel the season’s new energy.
- Embrace quiet luxury: Inspired by Gucci, focus on one standout, high-quality piece. A perfectly tailored blazer, a beautiful leather bag in a rich color, or a simple, elegant slip dress can elevate your entire look.
- Play with proportions: Take a cue from Coperni and Simone Rocha by mixing silhouettes. Pair a voluminous bomber jacket with a slim-fitting skirt or wear an oversized sheer blouse over a simple tank top.
- Look for unique textiles: Channel the spirit of Chopova Lowena by seeking out pieces with interesting textures and stories. Look for upcycled materials, patchwork details, or folkloric embroidery in vintage or artisan markets.
- Don’t be afraid of a statement piece: Whether it’s a dress with a dramatic cut-out or a skirt with a bold print, allow one piece to be the star of your outfit. It’s the easiest way to feel current and express your personal style.
The latest designer collections offer more than just clothes; they offer a vision for the future. From polished minimalism to eco-conscious craft, the message is clear: fashion in 2024 is about personal expression, thoughtful design, and a renewed love for clothes that make you feel incredible. Now the only question is, which new vision will you be trying first?
